A poem sealed in the doll's porcelain head
Lala: "One day at the fleamarket in Geneva with BillyBoy*, we saw a pile of old books and magazines casually thrown away at the bottom of a tree by some dealer who obviously could not be bothered anymore. BillyBoy* said It's incredible that people throw away books like that. I looked at the pile and saw a small magazine with poems printed inside and I started reading one by a poet, unknown to me, called René Lyr, which I found very beautiful. I took the free magazine and brought it home. A few days later I felt like sealing it into the head of these new Mdvanii dolls, and Billy liked the idea, so we did it. It is a very metaphysical story and a great way to give justice to a poem about metamorhosis once tossed in the garbage and now in the heads of 2O unique and all-so precious Mdvanii dolls all over the world. I like the symbol behind it and I am sure that the poet would have loved the idea and somewhere, he must be happy with it."
INTRODUCTION
by BillyBoy*
To mark the first summer of the 21st-century, BillyBoy* and Lala have created “Intro Spectrum”, a collection of ultra-visionary high fashion couture of which the recurrent themes are: cyber surrealism “organic” bras and corsets, glove gown, ants, soft or fake accessories, references to the “soft-boiled” and “melting”, cannibalism and recycling fashion, transparency, wool associated with silk, lace and raffia. Fetish boots, sexiness, and a total new direction for make-up and hairdos, introducing the “De Shave” concept, trim, wool, feather and even gold chain hairdos.
Mdvanii says it and there is no way back: 1940’s Hollywood kitsch is SUCH a bore and so is the too commonly used word “glamour”! Retro kitsch must leave us alone and hopefully die once and for all! Kitsch may be fine for some tawdry commercially-made plastic dolls, for what else have they to give except those tired, old clichés of the past?
When Mdvanii uses references to the past, she transcends them to express the Here and the Now as well as exemplifying a projection of a vision of the future. This is the concept of cannibalism in fashion. She NEVER contents herself in reproducing kitsch images of the overly-sentimentalized past. Thusly, Mdvanii reigns supreme in making the clear distinction between retro kitsch and true creation.
Mdvanii is a work of art, a “sculpture with a lifestyle”. As a symbol of her soul, and for the first time in Mdvanii’s world, a poem from Belgian poet René Lyr, has been placed inside the head of each one of these unique dolls.
ARTHEMIS
In the forest the water in the fountains
has reflected the fresh image
forbidden to human visions
of the wisest and most beautiful one.
Run away, poet, who caught her
behind the thin shelter of the birch tree
her heart dancing like a lily of the valley’s
bell trembling in the breeze.
For in you the secret of things
accomplishes the future decree
which will keep you forever pure
throughout the metamophosis.
THE ALBUM
Spirit of Art Nouveau
Etheral and fluid like the water of a brook on a bed of pebbles, this architectural gown is in luminous blue and lime yellow pleated gauze with a transparent ribbon corsage of transparent cellophane with raw white cotton inserted thread. Greek-style flat sandals in gold thread, “De Shaved” hairdo with mauve and blue down and seaweed green hair treatment, also used as a trim around the wristlet. Earrings in matching anis green and crystal beads. Eye make-up “I love Gaudi”, lips and nails “Blackcurrent Dream”.
Le Secret des choses (The Secret of Things)
This fantasy costume, perhaps for a glamorous bal masqué or an opera scene, evokes the mystery of nature and the mythological creatures hidden in the forest. The dress is constructed on a wired grège cotton lacework skirt evoking the 18th-century....... with leaf appliqués, a long and fluffy celadon green crepe train and transparent copper raffia corsage. The hairdo is treated as a helmet made in matching grège cotton embroidery macarons, gold beads and gold metal leaves and a red flower heart. Stilettos with raffia straps, leaf mask. Gold and red “Kabuki” make-up, lips and nails “Chut!”.
The Secret of Things, poem by Gérard Wozek (see page 2)
The Paradox of Desire
Or, as its namesake, to be practically nude in a transparent pleated gauze underskirt trimmed in lace under a gold wire dress enhanced with coloured raffia bows. Transparent celadon raffia corsage, big pouf in 19th-century ribbon. Hairdo “Rastamania” in black and brown wool. Eye make-up “Unfriendly Mushroom”, lipstick and nails “Toxic Kiss””. Gold-plated earrings and moon shaped bracelets. Boots in midnight blue vinyl with red lace.
The Secret of the Shell
Stunning gown in pleated organza with wired waist and hem coiling like the couture shell that it is, it has gold painted accents on its surface and a fluffy foam-like pouf in subtle off-white gauze. The fabrics were originally made for Jean Patou in the 1920’s. The corsage is made of sand-colour fringe with gold thread inserts, hanging from the neck like a necklace. Pale grey and white Italian tressed straw Talleyrand hat with gold brim. Gold stilettos with gold straps. Hairdo in pale blue down. Eye make-up “Shell Thrill”, lipstick “De Rêve”.
The Secret of the Shell, poem by Gérard Wozek (see page 2)
Insomnia
Insomnia...or sleep walking? Mesmerized, Mdvanii wanders through the night, wrapped in a blanket gown of cannibalized bright coloured crochet wool with a slit corsage unveiling the breasts, attached in the back with raffia straps.Her feet are painted gold with blue pompons. Long hairdo in wet sand colour, attached in the back with a black and gold insomnia butterfly brooch. The ultra sensational eye make-up is called “Recurrent Dream”, the lips shade “Moonkiss”.
Set: oil paint palette from Jean-Marc Dallanégra. Insomnia, poem by Gérard Wozek (see page 2)
Tsé-Tsé
Bzzz! Bzzz! Will this fine mouche Mdvanii sting her victim into a fatal sleepy-dreamy state? She is wearing an unusually ultra short skirt in silk ribbon with flowery tones and dainty pouf in the back and a dashing “organic” red lacquered corset in resin. Platform shoes in red lacquer and gold leather straps in the 15th-century Chinese “Chopin”-style, gold-plated cuffs with ruby rhinestones, choker of hand-made glass ruby petals (by Gripoix) with matching earrings. De Shave hairdo with red heart flower and two antennas, perfect to feel the mood. Eye make-up “Sonic”, lipstick and nails “Sang Neuf”. Tsé-Tsé , poem by Gérard Wozek (see page 2)
Lavandière
Another aspect of deconstructivist doll couture: a celadon astutely-ripped knit bodice with black lace corsage and cuffs, full open skirt with two layers of black crepe embroidered with tiny delicate flowers and a 19th-century ribbon overskirt building as a pouf in the back.Short underskirt in navy blue organza crin banding. Platform boots in midnight blue vinyl. Hairdo in off-white crocheted cotton with fringe. Ethnic dangling silver earrings. Eye make-up and lips “Rouille Exquise”, nails “Celadon 2”.
Spider and I
Mdvanii gives another definition of chic and allure with "Spider and I". This bright orange curly knit full skirt with black waist ribbon attached in the back has a lace corsage with ruffled neckline. Dramatic black felt hat with black veil moustiquaire, with center hole to pass the high hairdo. Black sequined mittens, purse with BillyBoy* Surreal Bijoux ant on a rock. Bright orange raffia hairband, hairdo in brown mohair chignon with black lace flower. Orange and gold bead earrings, black platform shoes with gold leather straps. Eye make-up “Luciole”, lips and nails “Glycine”. Named after a sublime song by Brian Eno, the inventor of “Ambiant Music”, from the late 1970’s, in Before And After Science album.
La chair de l'écrevisse (The Crayfish Meat)
Cyber surrealism is a keyword this season in Mdvanii’s wardrobe: this dramatic affair is made out of a full skirt in black lace evoking dried seaweed, embroidered with baroque pearls on a ruffled gray satin underskirt. Daring “organic melting” corset with draped scarf effect around the neck, lacquered in pseudo skin tones. Wild hairdo in gold opera fringe in a Rasta-chic style, enhanced with a black cockfeather. Fetish Victorian-style semi-boots in black vinyl. Purse in double black and gold-plated shell, gold cuffs and dangling earrings with rhinestones. Eye make-up and nails ”Le Mauve”, lips ”GotYa”.
“Talk to The Ant”
Cyber surrealist? Madly so! Another variation of BillyBoy*’s recycled Haute Couture, using the astutely-ripped knit bodice on an evening gown, this time sleeveless in navy blue wool with black lace corsage. The full skirt is in blue muslin with white polka dots, built with a multi-layer portefeuille effect and a pouf train in ruffled navy blue ribbon with white circles, enhanced with gold bead embroidery. White cotton mi-length petticoat with embroidered hem. “Melting ice-cream” resin hat with ant decoration and cotton straps ( can be attached under the chin or in the back of the head). Vinyl Victorian-style fetish demi-boots. Eye make-up “Le Mauve”, lips “GotYa”.
Beggar’s Banquet
To join the Beggars' Banquet, Mdvanii wears this stunning ensemble comprised of a Scottish floor-length kilt with opening in the back, closed with a huge dramatic pin, crossed suspenders forming a bra and a very delicately hand-painted leather and rubber folkloric style vest with coloured thread appliqués. Shoes and long gloves in white medical gauze, shoes with a brown leather sole and cord straps,tTrompe-l’oeil “Fake” leather handbag. Neo-punk white hairdo in yak hair with coloured cotton knots, gold loop earrings. Eye make-up and lips “Salvation Army”, nails “Neo Max Factor”.
So What?
An ultra sexy ensemble, comprised of an astutely ripped brown leather skirt, a tailored bodice in cannibalized grége cotton crochet with turquoise bead belt decoration. The high boots are in brown suede with hand-painted darker brown stripes and cuffs. Arm cuffs in matching suede with turquoise beads. Afro-style hairdo in brown down, gold beaded hairband with beaded flowers. Loop earrings with turquoise rock beads. Eye make-up, lips and nails: “Cuivre intense”.
Incognito
Knit is definitely just right in Mdvanii’s new wardrobe this season! Daring two-tone knit cowboy-style pants with brown leather knotted belt. “Organic” draped bra in red and yellow tones recalls Clement Massier’s manner for ceramic in the late 19th-century. Brown leather boots with “comma” heels, brown leather mittens, Caramel felt cowboy hat with brown leather brim. Long blond hairdo in natural hair. Eye make-up “Banjo”, lips and nails “O’Keefe”.
“Glovely to look at”
”Just too true! Hand-painted evening cannibalized glove gown in ”pseudo-autopsy” tones of “lungs” red matched appropriately to “blood” red lacquered nails, the ensemble opens with “Instant Sex” buttoning. Prune and green platform shoes (The colour is wittily called “Corpse”), gold cuffs with ruby rhinestones, long chain with cross, gold thread choker, gold cross earrings with rhinestones.
The Medici-ian “De Shave” hairdo is combined with a sensational silver thread long breaded ponytail and black hairband. It is worn with a stunning hat figuring a Louis XVI wig, in red gold resin! Lime green eye make-up and nails “Cold Revenge”, lips “Duel”.
Electrocardiograme
Classic chic with a twist, this dress combines a full low skirt in raw black cotton and white ric-rac over an ankle-length knit sheath dress in matching tones with a one shoulder neckline in velvet crochet, exposing one delicate breast. Black lacquered stilettos with raffia straps, gold cuffs with red enamel inserts, red “heart of flower” pompom handbag with gold bamboo handle, transparent and black teardrop glass bead earrings. Hairdo “Baba au Rhum” in braided brown wool with black lace hairband. Eye make-up “Butterfly Dust”, lips and nails “ Pensive”.
Pompons Vogue
Delighful and ultra neo-neo, this alluring ensemble features bell-bottomed pale blue knitted pants with sequined hems and wide black and gold embroidered trim belt, a pale blue innovative pleated sleeve-cape and a daring bra-necklace made out of beads, sequins and coloured pompons which go with the flow! Black platform shoes with straps, black and gold “heart of flower” pompon handbag with gold bamboo handle, transparent and black teardrop glass bead earrings, pink and gold embroidered hairband and neo-afro fur hairdo. Eye make-up and lips “Jane X”, nails and nipples “Frost Blue”.
Pompons Vogue, poem by Gérard Wozek (see page 2)
La cigale et la Fourmi (The Cicada and the Ant)
Mysterious and introspective, Mdvanii "The Cicada and the Ant" wears a definitely metaphysical dress, mixing fabrics that no one would manage to combine so successfully. Let's see: an ankle-length beige and white wool knit sheath skirt with a sophisticated hand-crocheted white cotton thread corsage cannibalized from a very fine piece of embroidery work. The delicate cape with chimney collar is in pleated gauze trimmed in celadon raffia. Pale blue open-toe shoes with raffia straps, “heart of flower” green pompom purse with gold torsade handle. “Lettuce” hairdo in lime green wool with ant brooch and green raffia hairband, baroque pearl earrings and necklace. Eye make-up “Elytre”, lips and nails “Dansez maintenant!”
Robe schizophrène (Schizophrenic Gown)
This Mdvanii "Robe Schizophrène" is a revolution by herself! Just check: A frothy off-white organza gauze overskirt ending as a veil. over a red leather cage-skirt with gold studs, a short lace underskirt and boxer semi-boots in black vinyl with red lacing. Red leather and gold studs dog collar, blood red teardrop earrings. “De Shave” hairdo, eye make-up “Libido”, lips and nails “Intense”. This is art.
Ondine
A siren trapped in a luxurious net, Mdvanii is entirely nude under this stunning hand-made off-white linen crocheted Empire-waisted sheath gown with full train in tulle embroidered with pearls, cannibalized from an early 20th-century vase mat. Ankle-length “discretion” pearl ribbon hanging from the corsage and trimmed with midnight blue flowers, gold cothurns (...à la Grecque shoes) with ruby rhinestones and straps. Pearl dangling earrings, “Josephine” hairdo in gold chain with enamel white accents. Eye make-up “Voie lactée”, lips “Coral Scream”, nails “Sonar”.
Ondine, poem by Gérard Wozek (see page 2)
Breeze of Liberty
The most daring and architectural dress ever made for Mdvanii: an organza red and white cape with fringed veil effect, blowing in the summer breeze, over an striped velvet mini dress with folded pouf. The cape is closed by two pearl buttons in the front. Red lacquered pumps with gold leather straps, hand-blown glass red petal earrings. Glass beads "Medusa" hair ornament in purple hues. Eye make-up “Ultra Violet”, lips “Toxic Kiss”, nails “Le Mauve”.
